Sarah’s Favorite Cookbooks: So Many Feels

cookbooks-7It can be hard to pick my favorite cookbook off my shelf. It’s not that I have a lot of them. Give me a few more years and I might rival my dad’s collection. He’s been known to buy them, forget he bought them and buy them again. The classic story being the slow cooker themed Fix It and Forget It. Well, he bought it and forgot it. Now I have a copy on my shelf.

But getting back to picking a favorite… It’s also not that I use the cookbooks a lot. To be honest, I reference Pinterest most of the time when I am looking for something new to try. Shameless plug, if you haven’t checked out our board, give it a whirl! Amy does an amazing job of collecting some excellent recipes. When I do leaf through my books and use recipes, I’m usually baking or looking to make something niche like a paleo dish.

My cookbooks tend to have memories and emotions attached to them. So instead of picking a favorite based on how often I use it or how many recipes I’ve made in it, I would pick one based on, well, warm and fuzzies. How does it make me feel? Who gave me the cookbook? Where did I buy it?

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“Sticky Marmalade Rolls” from The Wind and the Willows.

There’s my first, the simple Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook first published in 1930 with 15 editions now under it’s belt, which my dad gifted to me when I went off to college in the late ’90s. Mine is copyrighted 1996…so it’s not the most hip or modern book on my shelf. The pictures aren’t super appealing and the recipes don’t call for many fresh ingredients. It definitely pre-dates the Michael Pollan era of cooking and eating. But it does have basics, like measurement charts and cuts of meat. It’s no frills, basic cooking. I haven’t looked at the latest edition at the book store, but from the reviews I’ve read it seems to have the same spirit: a great starter for someone going off to college with simple recipes and basic ingredients.

From basic to whoahTop Chef: The Cookbook, the first present my best friend and co-Founding Foodie Amy gave me for Christmas years ago. I knew I had found my kindred spirit. It’s got recipes from the show’s first three seasons, from quick fire and elimination challenges. I will admit, I’ve not made a single recipe. But it is my favorite show, so I’ve leafed through it so many times. While some

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“How to Cut Brisket” step-by-step in The Salt Lick Cookbook.

recipes have ingredients like elk and geoduck, most aren’t as complicated as you might think. At the very least, the recipes and photos are inspiring. And when you don’t know an ingredient or term used, it’s easy to look it up. The fun parts of the book are the recaps of the season, who won the challenges and the bios of each contestant with page numbers to their recipes. If your a Top Chef geek like me, it’s a fun one to have on your shelf.

Then there’s Cherry Cake and Ginger Beer: A Golden Treasury of Classic Treats by Jane Brocket, a sweet little book I picked up in Scotland a few years ago. It’s full of treats from classic children’s books like The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe,  The Wind and the Willows and Heidi. Since it was published in the UK, there are some books I’m not familiar with, but the themes stay the same – adventure, intrigue, moral lessons and growing up. Sweet black and white illustrations are scattered throughout. The recipes are broken out into insanely adorable sections like “Proper Elevenses”, “Cook’s Special Treats” and “Picnic Treats”. It makes me happy … after all, I did have a children’s book themed baby shower just last weekend. I can pick it up and read tiny bits here and there and even if there are no pictures of the food, I can use my imagination to see the jam, biscuits and cookies.

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That time my husband got meat from The Salt Lick for his birthday…and our cat Sammi stole the show.

There’s one more cookbook on my shelf that I love to pick up and “devour”: The Salt Lick Cookbook: A Story of Land, Family and Love. Note, this is technically not my book, it’s my husband’s gifted to him by his mom. A couple of years ago she sent him the cookbook along with some of their signature rub/seasoning. If you don’t know, The Salt Lick is an iconic barbecue spot opened in 1967 with roots going back to the mid-1800’s when the family started slow cooking meat on an open pit. I’ve never been to The Salt Lick…but I have seen it on TV many times. It was even featured in Top chef’s Texas season in 2012 (call back!). If you can’t make it to Driftwood, it’s primary location outside of Austin, Texas, you can order it online and have it delivered to your front door. For my husband’s birthday a few years back I ordered him a whole bunch of meat. We ate well for days.

The cookbook has beautiful photos of the ranch, the restaurant and, of course, the food. There are awesome step-by-step photos for biscuit and pie recipes as well as how-to carve a brisket. The meat is the star, but my favorites in this book are the sides and desserts. Among the basic ingredients, their Hatch Macaroni and Four Cheeses recipe calls for chipotle in adobe sauce, Hatch chilis, crispy bacon and goat cheese. Oh. My. Gawd. And don’t get me started on their peach cobbler or their pecan pie.

For food lovers, cookbook collections can be a window into their soul. If you’re like me, and you periodically “weed” your shelves, there are the books you can part with and the books you could never ever part with. Whether they were given to you by someone special, you found it on a trip or you met the author or chef and got them to sign it … cookbooks can evoke so many emotions, so many feels. Even if you don’t dirty a single page by making any recipes.

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These Are The [Hollan]Days

image2Holladaise is not what I was supposed to be writing about today.

You see, it’s National Key Lime Pie Day. But it is also September, and I’m just not feeling the citrus right now. (Although I will admit the pie recipe I had picked out from Two Peas & Their Pod looked pretty divine with a bad mamma jamma coconut macaroon crust.)

I’m craving warm, stick-to-your-ribs kinda food as the skies become overcast and that familiar fall chill begins to gnaw away at summer’s long, humid days. But since we’re focusing on “National Something-Or-Other Day” this month, and it’s key lime’s turn… I’m kinda stuck.

Or am I?

I’d never trust Wikipedia as a source for anything without confirming with other, more trusted sites. Unless it issued me such a convenient “Get Out Of [Key Lime Pie] Jail Free” card. Which it did this weekend.

You see, according to Wikipedia, September 26th is National Pancake Day (been there, done that), National Chocolate Milk Day (check … kind of), Johnny Appleseed Day (we love them apples!), National Dumpling Day (yes) … and National Better Breakfast Day.

For someone who claims breakfast isn’t their favorite meal, I sure seem to write about it a lot (here, here, here, HERE and here). And this recipe may be my favorite, all smothered in one of the most divine substances known to man…

Hollandaise.

I spent a lot of time making custards for events over the last two weekends, one of which was your other Founding Foodie’s children’s book-themed baby shower. (Congrats, Sarah!) Custards can be a big fat pain in the you-know-what, which I’ve waxed poetic on before. Hollandaise is not much image5different.

It’s one of the French Mother Sauces, meaning a sauce from which others are derived. Hollandaise is mother to Bearnaise, Maltaise, Choron, Mousselline (a.k.a. Chantilly), Foyot and Grimrod. All of these smaller sauces are variations of the mother. Grimrod, for example, is Hollandaise infused with saffron. Mousselline is Hollandaise with heavy cream whipped and folded in just prior to serving.

Making this sauce, however, is decidedly as fussy as name might indicate. It can be downright snooty about its environmental conditions. Get the pan too hot, and, like custard, you’ll be left with scrambled eggs. The only remedy to that malady is a low to moderate heat and constant whisking. (Though the lemon juice helps, too, by preventing the proteins from coming together too quickly.)

And there’s nothing that will break your brunch spirit more than a broken sauce. Hollandaise is an emulsion, a mixture of oil and water. Remember the saying, “oil and water don’t mix”? Yeah. That’s true, and it’s not. Technically, they can mix if you [again] keep the heat low and slowly (think molasses in winter) add the butter into the eggs while whisking until you feel like your arm might fall off.

Sure … it’s not the easiest thing you’ll ever make. But the end results? O.M.G. I could bathe in this stuff. Use as I did here (eggs benedict!), or as a dipping sauce for frites (that’s a fancy shmancy way of saying fries). It is so good, and, before about 2:00 pm, totally deserving of the “better breakfast” moniker… no matter what you serve it on.

Plus, every time you whip (and whip, and whip some more) up, it get’s easier. Pretty soon, you’ll be rocking the pot de creme and the mayo, too. Whip it good, friend.

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I based my recipe on Julia Child’s with a spin of my own. My most valuable tip? Practice makes perfect. If you’re preparing this for guests, don’t wait until the morning of to try your hand. Whip up a batch a few days before your event so you can get your sea legs before you try to navigate the brunch boat. Still feeling a little nervous? Take a look at Serious Eats. (Pretty much everything they do is magical, and I agree with their assessment on mimosas: Friends don’t let friends make Hollandaise after cocktails. Somebody will definitely end up crying.) Still worried? The Kitchn and Serious Eats will show you how to make it in a blender. NEVER tell anyone I suggested this: I believe firmly that hard work pays dividends (or something like that… )

Ingredients:

4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
up to 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
a pinch of salt
a dash of cayenne
a smidge of nutmeg
white pepper, to taste
Ibubrofen

Method:

Using either a double boiler or a sauce pan and a stainless steel bowl [NOTE: as I don’t have either, I used glass here], place about a cup of water in the bottom of the double boiler or saucepan. The water should not touch the bottom of the pan/bowl. Heat to barely a simmer.

While the water heats, whisk the egg yolks, water and lemon juice together in the top of the double boiler or stainless steel bowl and until it has doubled in volume. Place the bowl over water, continuing to whisk rapidly. Do not let the eggs get too hot or they will scramble. (Check out the Serious Eats tip on lemon juice, or keep an ice cube handy to toss in if things start looking the slightest bit chunky.) As the eggs cook, they will become frothy and increase in size. Once they thicken to the point that you can see the pan through the stroke of your whisk (this would be the back of the spoon test for custard), remove from heat.

Add the butter in small spoonfuls, whisking constantly to emulsify. As it begins to come together, you can add a little more butter each time. Once the sauce has reached the thickness you like, stop adding butter.

Whisk in the seasonings, tasting and adjusting as necessary. Both the nutmeg and the white pepper are best fresh ground, but don’t sweat the small stuff.

Once you become more adept at making this sauce, play with your ingredients! Swap white wine vinegar or mustard for the lemon juice. Try a more generous amount of dill instead of the nutmeg, which makes this a wonderful addition to salmon. Or swap that nutmeg and the cayenne for a little Old Bay on top of crab benedict. I like things simple, so I just added a little thyme on top of my basic eggs benedict here with some sous vide eggs and a crunchy grilled baguette. So yummy!

(The Ibuprofen is for your elbow, not the sauce.)

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When Butterscotch Pudding Day Falls On Your Birthday … And You Hate Pudding

butterscotchbreadpudding-1We’re continuing our series on national food holidays in September and this week’s post happens to fall on another special day … my birthday! According to my mom, it’s a national holiday and, at the risk of sounding narcissistic, I tend to agree. I feel pretty lucky to share this b-day time of year with my bestie and Founding Foodie Amy, who’s birthday is only two days before mine.

Our favorite way to celebrate is with food. No surprise there. In fact, if I don’t feel a little sick to my tummy from my bad food choices on my birthday, I’m doing it wrong. This year we’re not able to celebrate together and will probably do it a bit belatedly. With Amy’s new role as foster mom to a tiny little baby, plus her personal chef schedule, we’re putting our usual celebration aside for now. I have no real excuse … other than my current “condition”, being with child and less than 7 weeks till my due date, which is making me tired, slightly less mobile and unable to partake in a glass of a celebratory adult beverage.

Having said that, this week’s choice of yum – butterscotch bread pudding – may seem a bit off when you see there is bacon AND bourbon in the ingredients list. Aren’t these no-go’s for pregnant ladies? The bacon I chose was nitrate free and most alcohol bakes off when cooked. Also, it only calls for a few tablespoons of bourbon, dispersed into a whole baked dessert is really not that much.

It’s National Butterscotch Pudding Day and I’m not a big fan of pudding. It’s a texture thing. Ever since I can remember I’ve not been into puddings, yogurts, mousse … stuff most kids love. Even too mushy oatmeal can be a little off putting to my senses.
Funny story, when I was little my dad told me that chocolate mousse was made of moose, like those giant beasts with horns roaming the northern forests. OK, maybe I was a little gullible. And at some point, yes, I figured out he was pulling a “dad” fib. Is this why I’m not a fan? Who’s to say?!

butterscotchbreadpudding-4You know what I am a big fan of? Bread pudding. It’s not as “pudding-y” as the name implies. Generally, it’s a baked dish made with stale bread soaked in cream and eggs. You can make it sweet or savory, depending on the additional ingredients you toss in or on top, or the sauce you serve alongside. My experience is with the dessert variety and only in the eating of them; I’ve never made one from scratch. But it was pretty easy!

I followed a decadent recipe from my go-to print and online food magazine, Bon Appetite. I didn’t add the poppy seeds they did, nor did I remove the crusts from my bread. I also kicked up the decadence by adding candied bacon on top before baking. You gotta treat yourself on your birthday, right?

And now…well, let’s just say I feel a little sick from all that rich, decadent sweetness. Can you pass the Tums please?

Bacon-Pecan Bourbon Bread Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce
You can leave out the pecans or the bacon in this recipe…but why would you want to? I candied my bacon, which just means rubbing brown sugar onto the strips before cooking them in the oven. A simple pan fry preparation would work just as well. You can also make the bacon and the caramel sauce a few days ahead of time. Note, this can take a bit of time allowing the pudding to set in the fridge and baking. Plan to make it the night before or the morning of to allow time to set.

Bread Pudding Ingredients
1 loaf stale, day old rustic white bread (I used a French bread), cute into 1 inch cubes
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons sugar
5 eggs
1 1/2 cup sugar
4 cups heavy cream
pinch kosher salt
3 tablespoons bourbon
1/2 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
2 cups chopped pecansbutterscotchbreadpudding-5
6 strips bacon
1/4 cup light brown sugar

Butterscotch Sauce Ingredients
1 cup light brown brown sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon bourbon

To make bread pudding… In a large bowl, toss the bread cubes with melted butter and two tablespoons sugar till well coated; set aside. Add the eggs and 1 1/2 cups sugar to a mixer bowl. Beat for about three minutes, till pale yellow and fluffy. Add cream and pinch of salt, beat to blend. Pour bourbon into a small bowl and whisk in the seeds scraped from inside the vanilla bean; whisk into the egg mixture. Add pecans to the bread cubes then pour the egg mixture in, tossing to coat well. Pour the coated bread into a 13×9 inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or aluminum foil and allow to set for 4-5 hours or overnight in the fridge.

Before baking the pudding, candy the bacon. Set the oven to 400 degrees. In a medium sized bowl, toss the bacon strips in 1/4 cup brown sugar. Place non-stick aluminum foil or parchment paper onto a large rimmed baking sheet. Arrange bacon onto the sheet; bake for about 20 minutes, till cooked and crispy. Move to wire racks to allow to cool and crisp a bit more.

When ready to bake, set the oven to 325 degrees. Remove the plastic wrap from the pudding. Chop up the bacon and sprinkle on top. Bake for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, until a toothpick or tester inserted to the middle comes out clean and top is browned.

To make butterscotch sauce… In a medium sized pan on medium-high heat, add brown sugar, corn syrup, butter and salt. Bring to a boil, whisking to completely dissolve the sugar. Continue to boil for about 3 minutes, until until syrupy and only about 1/2 cup remains after liquids are boiled off. Remove from heat. Add cream and bourbon, stirring until smooth. (If making ahead, allow to cool completely before covering tightly and setting in fridge. Rewarm before serving.)

Serve pudding warm drizzled with butterscotch sauce alongside vanilla ice cream or fresh whipped cream.

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Posted in Dear Diary
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!