Forgotten Fall Spirits

ForgottenFall - 1This time of year whenever “spirits” are mentioned you might conjure up haunted houses, corn mazes, witches and goblins.  Any decent bartender will immediately think of Calvados and Apple Jack and begin mentally cataloging the items needed to make a fantastic fall cocktail.  As a gardener and a bartender, spirit is the word I most commonly use in reference to discussion of any distilled product.  After all, the liquid or “juice” is simply, yet wonderfully, the spirit of the plant or fruit that once lived.  If you take the time to learn how to correctly appreciate the tasting notes of any given spirit you will begin to pick up subtle hints to the terrior of the plant, and your palate will be rewarded.

Calvados is the distilled spirit of apples from the Calvados region of France – the area was named after the drink in this case just after the French Revolution.  The apples are picked for cider and left to ferment.  Once fermented the juice is distilled and aged in barrels for a minimum of two years.

The flavors of any spirit aged in oak barrels changes significantly based on quite a few factors — time in the barrel, type of oak, char, climate and toasting levels.  Traditionally, the longer a spirit is aged in wood the softer the character of that spirit and the more notes of the wood it takes on.  For example, French Oak or Limosine will impart flavors of dried fruit and baking spices, while American Oak will impart strong vanilla, leather and saw dust characteristics.  I would highly recommend grabbing a few bottles of aged spirits for your home bar — and don’t forget to do a little research on them!  This is a very inexpensive way to begin to train your palate to pick up subtle, and sometimes not so subtle, notes of any spirit.

At first, calvados may not be recognizable as distilled apples to an untrained palate. There may be an unexplained flavor that you can’t quite put your finger on; perhaps, one that is masked by the “heat” of the alcohol.  If this is the case, just add a few drops of water to tame the alcohol flavor and take the time to swish the spirit around in your mouth.  You may now begin to recognize the flavors of fall and apples!

Apple Jack is the American cousin to calvados and has a great history as well.  Laird’s is the most famous distiller of Apple Jack today and was also the very first licensed distillery in the United States – signed by George Washington himself.  Apple Jack is most definitely the younger, brasher cousin of the reserved Calvados. Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of each to taste the differences.

Here are two recipes, perfect for cold weather, that makes the passing of summer almost bearable.

ForgottenFall - 2The first, a riff on a Vieux Carre, is a well balanced cocktail that uses bitters to seamlessly tie it together. Because this cocktail is entirely spirit based – similar to a Manhattan – I like to pre-batch it, placing it into barrels prior to serving.  This eliminates the mixing and overall time to make, especially great for get togethers and parties.  Small barrels, from 1 to 10 liters, are available to buy online and make a great addition and conversation piece to any home bar.

The second is a great cocktail companion created by bartender friend Chelsea for those imbibers who would prefer something a bit lighter and more fruit forward.

Try both cocktails together for your next party.  Each offers something unique and seasonal for everyone attending.  Also, try a tasting of each of the bottles side-by-side to showcase the similarities, differences and history of each.  It’s a fun way to liven up any cocktail party.

Autumn Harvest Vieux Carre

1 ounce  Boulard Calvados
1 ounce  Bonded Rittenhouse Rye
1/2 ounce  Carpano Antica Vermouth
1/2 ounce  Benedictine
2 dashes Bar Keep Apple Bitters
2 dashes  Peychauds Bitters

Stir with ice and strain into an old fashioned glass, add ice and garnish with an orange peel, twisted over the glass.

Forbidden Apple

Created by Chelsea M. of BRGR Cranberry, PA.

1 1/2 ounce Laird’s Apple Jack
1/2 ounce orange juice
1/2 ounce Luxardo liquor
1/2 ounce mulled apple cider (1 cup coarse, high quality mulling spice … I use Mountain Rose Herb blend … to 1 gallon apple cider. Warm and strain.)
1/2 ounce spiced port (1 vanilla bean 2 cinnamon sticks, peels from 2 oranges, 8 cloves, 8 allspice berries dropped into a bottle of inexpensive ruby port)

Shake all ingredients, except for the port. Pour into a chilled martini glass, float the port on top.

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Posted in Dear Diary

Life Of Pie

LifeOfPie_6070I love pie. I never cared for cake–I found it flavorless and dry, and didn’t like frosting’s weird texture or cloying sweetness. That meant that I was always the kid with her birthday candles stuck in a pie. It was cherry one year, pumpkin the next, with a lemon merengue thrown in every once in a while for good measure—but never apple. While my childhood home of Southern California had many delicious things growing on trees (I’m looking at you avocado), its apples were tasteless and mealy, and made for truly mediocre pies. But then I came to Maryland, where people pick apples at actual orchards on beautiful fall days, and simple apple pie became heavenly.

The great thing about apple pie is it’s nearly impossible to mess up. The only ingredients are sugar, spices, and apples. Add butter and flour for the crust, and how can you go wrong? This post is a perfect illustration of that…the pies are not my most beautiful, but they still taste amazing.

Great pie starts with great apples. Some apples hold up better than others under the heat, and more tart varieties pair well with the sweetness of the other pie ingredients. Mental Floss provides a flow chart on the best apples for each use (this is also handy if you’re looking for the perfect apple to hurl against a wall or feed to a horse), and the good old Farmer’s Almanac provides a no-frills list of apples for all types of cooking and baking. For today’s pies we headed out to Waters Orchard and loaded up on Cameo and Jonagold apples.

It’s not just the apples that make a pie great; you also need a great crust. You could buy a pre-made crust, but making one from scratch can be just as easy, and you get the added bonus of impressing friends and family with your mad baking skills. I always use Martha Stewart’s paté brisée recipe (though The Martha uses a food processor, while I just use a fork and my fingers to integrate the butter and water into the flour). It will take a few tries to get used to what the dough is supposed to feel like, but even if it’s a little too soft (as mine was this time) or a little too tough, it still tastes great. And if the dough is too sticky to roll out, or if you break into a cold sweat thinking about rolling a perfectly round pie crust, don’t worry, you can just press the crust into the bottom of the pie plate. When it’s covered in apple goodness no one will notice.

LifeOfPie_6083I love making pie, but I HATE peeling apples……or rather, I hate skinning my knuckles with those horrible potato peelers. My previous solution was to make my husband peel the apples in exchange for eating my pie. It was very effective (even if he wasn’t doing it this way…though I think I’m going to hide the power drill next time just in case…), but he isn’t always around when the pie-making urge strikes. Luckily I found this little finger peeler which has revolutionized the apple-peeling experience.

When it comes to covering the pie, you have lots of options. To wow your audience you can make a lattice crust (thekitchn has a great how-to—it’s not hard, just time consuming) or use cookie cutters to cut designs in the top crust. But if I’m just making pie as a family treat I’ll use a crumble topping. It–notice the theme?–tastes amazing and is so easy. If you go this route you’ll see that the crumble is moister than you would expect–this is how it should be. Just dribble it from your fingers like you would wet sand at the beach, until the whole pie is covered.

Then put it all together, bake, and prepare for deliciousness!

WTE note to Eaters: We would like to congratulate Karl F. for winning the drawing for the MetroCooking tickets this weekend! We hope to see you at the show!

Apple Pie Recipe
Paté brisée (makes 2 crusts, or top and bottom crust)

Adapted from The Martha, see link above
LifeOfPie_6072
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled butter (I prefer salted)
1/4 -1/2 cup ice water

Combine flour, salt, and sugar.

Cut butter into small pieces, and use a fork to integrate into the dry ingredients. It also works well to use your fingers to smash the small butter chunks. Do this until the mixture resembles coarse sand.

Add ice water, one tablespoon at a time, kneading after each spoonful, until the dough holds together but is not sticky. Be careful not to over-knead it or the dough will become tough.

Split dough in two, flatten into disks and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for at least one hour.

Crumble topping
Adapted from food.comLifeOfPie_6068

3/4 cup flour
1/4 cup white sugar
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/3 cup butter
1/4 tsp cinnamon

Mix dry ingredients together. Cut butter into small chunks and use a fork or your fingers to integrate it into the dry ingredients. Put aside.

Pie filling
Adapted over time from many Internet apple pie recipes. This recipe is just enough filling for a pie tin. If you have a larger ceramic pie plate you’ll need one and a half times this recipe.

Before starting the filling, take the pie crusts out of the refrigerator so they can be at room temperature by the time you are ready to roll them out.LifeOfPie_6002

1/3 cup white sugar
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/8 tsp nutmeg
3/4 tsp cinnamon
3 pounds of apples
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 tbsp flour

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel apples and cut into half-inch chunks. Most recipes suggest cutting your apples into thin slices, but I prefer small chunks, as it keeps them from getting rubbery as they cook.

Add the rest of the ingredients to the apples and mix well.

While the apples marinate, flour your rolling surface and rolling pin and roll out one of the crust disks so that it is a little larger than your pie plate. Making sure the top of the crust is also well floured, gently fold the crust into quarters, and place it in the pie plate. Unfold the crust and press it into the bottom edges of the plate, letting the edges of the crust hang over the edge of the plate.

Pour the apple mixture into the pie plate. There will be a lot of thick apple cinnamon syrup in the bottom of the bowl. Pour this over the top of the apples (or save it to eat over ice cream while your pie is cooking!).

Cover the top of the pie with the crumble mixture so that you can no longer see any apples. Use the overhanging bottom crust to seal the edges of the pie by rolling it up and pressing it over the outside edge of the crumble topping.LifeOfPie_6103

Put the pie on a cookie sheet to catch any juice that may bubble over. Cover the edges of the pie in foil, or use a silicon crust shield, to keep the edges from burning.

Bake for 45 minutes to an hour. There is some variation depending on the type of apples used and the size of the pie plate. You will know it is done when it smells spectacular and you can see juice bubbling out the top.

Let stand one hour before serving.

Eat joyously.

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Baked Stuffed Apples … And Win Tickets To MetroCooking DC!

BakedApples - 1Fall brings with it so many hearty and satisfying dishes. As colder weather approaches, I feel the need to eat comforting foods and fatten up. Side note: I would love to hibernate all winter long. Side side note: I haven’t waited till Fall to fatten up.

This is precisely what I had in mind when I began looking for recipes. But when looking for inspiration, most recipes I found were either desserts or the obvious pork roasts and chops. I wanted something different, something hearty and something that encompassed this season.

What about a baked stuffed apple? Ummm, yes, please!

Not only did this look adorable and dinner party worthy on the search results of my Pinterest app, but it sounded really yummy. It was a cold, rainy day and if it weren’t for the pressure put on by our bellies rumbling, I could have simply lain under a blanket watching reality television all day. Triple side note: my latest guilty pleasure is Bravo’s Ladies of London, my only criticism is that it could use a lot more corgis.

OK, no more side notes … I promise this post is mostly all about savory apples.

The concept seemed simple enough. Come up with a stuffing: we used ground country pork sausage, brown rice, apple, shallots, sage and rosemary. Hallow out some apples, mush the stuffing in and bake. And it really was that simple. The only hard part was the gutting of the apples. After cutting out the top with a knife to create a whole to start with, we used regular spoons. It gets wet and slippery, but once you get your groove, it’s easy. As for the stuffing, you could use quinoa or another type of rice instead. Add in walnuts or pecans, play with the seasonings … even try using a spicier sausage to give that harvest flavor a kick in the pants.

We pulled a couple of tricks to make this dish particularly flavorful, thanks to Amy. That morning she had roasted a chicken and just happened to have fresh stock sitting in her fridge. We threw that into the rice maker with a little water and the brown rice. It smelled like heaven.
stuffedapples2The next trick was to swap out the apple juice the recipe called for with apple cider. It seemed to add a heartier, more concentrated flavor to the dish.

The great thing about this recipe is its flexibility. You can tweak it so many ways to fit your tastes or your pantry’s current state. Not to mention it looks pretty enough to serve for Thanksgiving, a dinner party or any holiday meal you’re planning this season.

Just make sure you stick to a type of apple that works best for paring with savory flavors and holds up to baking. The recipe originally called for Brauburn, which is a rich tasting, crisp and firm variety. We were concerned with the size, thinking the ones we purchased were a little too small, and went to with a larger Honey Crisp. This choice turned out great, as they are also crisp and have a sweeter flavor, which seemed to balance the savory well.

Oh! One last side note …

12120032_1239403356086115_1669873734904943833_oDid we mention that we’ll be hanging out with Giada De Laurentiis, Michael D. Symon,  Bryan Voltaggio and Christina Tosi at the annual Metropolitan Cooking & Entertaining Show at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center in Washington, D.C. on October 24-25? Yes, in fact we are! We plan to shop, sip and sample our way through the weekend, watching chefs in the celebrity theater and checking out all of the specialty food vendors.

We’re giving away a pair of tickets to the event, compliments of MetroCooking DC. These tickets are worth more than $150! All you have to do is sign up for our mailing list, The Peppercorn Press, by pressing the ‘Join Us’ button below to be entered into the drawing.JoinNow_button The winner will be notified by Friday, October 23, via email.

 

Entries will be open through midnight Thursday October 22 and the winner will be announced by noon Friday October 23.

Savory Baked Stuffed Apples

Our inspiration came from a pin we found of savory apples recipe.com. With a few minor adjustments … Braeburn apples swapped for Honeycrisp, onions for shallots, apple juice for cider and adding sage. We also thought adding pecans or walnuts next time would add an awesome crunchy.

1 cup brown riceBakedApples - 3
1 3/4 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup shallot, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup (8 ounces) pork sausage, mild or country style
1 tablespoon sage, minced
1/2 tablespoon thyme
6 Honeycrisp apples
1 cup apple, chopped (from coring and hallowing apples)
1 cup apple cider
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Prepare the rice per instructions, replacing the water with chicken stock for a richer flavor. You can do a mix of stock and water, depending on how much stock you have on hand and how thick it is.

BakedApples - 6Remove the cores from the apples and hallow out using a large spoon. Make sure the hole at the top is big enough to add stuffing. You want enough apple removed, but also enough apple remaining to slice into when cooked.

Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat, adding the olive oil when heated. Cook the shallots first, pulling them off once they are translucent and browned. They will burn quickly if you leave them on too long!

Add the garlic and sausage to the pan. Cook the sausage till browned, but don’t over do it – it will also cook in the oven later. Towards the end, throw in the chopped apple, sage and thyme and cook for another few minutes.

When done, remove from heat and stir in the cooked rice. Stuff the apples with the sausage-rice mixture and arrange in a shallow baking dish. Pour the apple cider over the apples.

Bake for 30-45 minutes, until the stuffing is browned on top and the apples are tender.

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Posted in Dear Diary
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!