Gettin’ Figgy With Your AB&J

Fresh FigsIf you haven’t tried fresh figs, you should. I assure you, they’re nothing like Fig Newtons (a poor excuse for a cookie, in my opinion). Come to think of it, I’m not a fan of dried figs in general, unless they’re sauteed in Mark Bittman’s Brussels sprouts recipe (dreamy!). So however you may feel about dried figs, trust me — a fresh fig is entirely its own thing. And, like many summer gems, they don’t last long. The clock is ticking, so seize the moment!

I’ve been chowing down on these beauties at work recently, and have been surprised at how many colleagues have asked what they taste like. Unfortunately, I don’t have a particularly good answer. They taste like … fresh figs. Which is to say, delicious. Sweet (sometimes, very sweet). Added bonus: they’re fun to eat, with soft, slightly chewy skins and teeny tiny seeds that pop in your mouth like poppy seeds. 

I was fortunate to have regular access to these plump green gems growing up in Seattle, thanks to the tree in our neighbor’s yard. Lucky for me, I was apparently the only person in the immediate vicinity who liked the things, aside from the birds.

There are hundreds of varieties of fig, I’m told, although you’re likely to find only a handful at your local market. They’re all tasty, but none as delicious as those I plucked from my neighbor’s tree. And that’s not just nostalgia talking, by the way. After extensive Internet searching, I’ve decided those were Desert King figs. I haven’t seen that variety since leaving Seattle more than a decade ago.

Fig Jam JarsBut … back to the matter at hand — a grown-up PB&J! Frankly, we’re unabashed fans of the kiddie version at my house. But since a WTE challenge requires some creative thinking, that obviously won’t do. And with figs on my mind (and my counter), fig jam seemed a lovely way to bid farewell to summer.

One small problem: Jam is not in my cooking repertoire. I hate acknowledging how much refined sugar it requires. And then there’s all that sterilizing hullabaloo. Luckily, lazy me has discovered you only have to go to all that trouble if you plan to store the jam on your shelf. The wisdom of the Internet tells me there’s nothing wrong with storing homemade jam in the freezer until you’re ready to enjoy it.

Score!

So, newly armed with some jam-for-dummies techniques and plenty of figs, I set to work. My dream combo is pistachio butter and fig jam, since pistachios and figs belong together in my little corner of the world. But pistachio butter ain’t easy to find, and while you can make your own …. well, as much as I love you all, there are limits. Almond butter it is!

As delicious as I consider fresh figs, this jam was amazing and super-easy to make. Paired with the almond butter? Fantastic! And with all this jam I have, I can try out all these sweet and savory treats, many of which are even more grown-up than revised PB&J.

Now, you can, too.

 Easy Fig Jam

Adapted from Kiss My Spatula. In most fig jam recipes, the amount of sugar used is equal to half the weight of the fruit, making a kitchen scale helpful. I used slightly less and the jam was still quite sweet. The recipe below makes about 2 1/2 cups of jam.

20 ounces figs (I used a mixture of black mission, brown turkey, and some unidentified green ones).
9 ounces (approximately 1 1/4 cups) sugar
Long strips of zest from half a large lemon (I used a vegetable peeler)
Juice from half a lemon
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier
Tiny splash of orange extract (optional)

Wash and stem the figs and chop them into small pieces. Add to a heavy-bottomed saucepan along with the sugar, zest, juice and Grand Marnier. Let it all macerate off the heat for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Cooking Fig JamTurn the heat to medium high, stirring occasionally until the mixture boils. When you reach a boil, turn down the heat to simmer. Stir the fruit from time to time until you reach your preferred thickness (I cooked mine for about 40 minutes). You can use a potato masher to mush up some of the fig chunks, if you like.

When it’s cool enough, spoon into containers. Let the jars cool completely before putting the lids on. Remember — this  jam is strictly for storing in the fridge and/or freezer. Do not slap a lid on the jar and put it in your cupboard, unless you use proper canning techniques. 

For the sandwich, spread almond butter (MaraNatha roasted is fantastic) and jam on your favorite bread. Or skip the bread and just spoon it up!

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Posted in Sweet

To Make A Burger Sweet? Pickles, Of Course!

I spun my wheels and spun them some more.  Just how does one make a burger sweet?  Red meat — any meat — that’s ground up, grilled over smoky flame and served steaming hot on a bun is by definition, savory.

To Make A Burger Sweet? Pickles, Of Course!

My mind raced. Sweet fruits, chutneys, jams? Pork, goat, turkey? Where to even begin?

Then I stopped, took a breath and listened to my heart. Pickles … sweet, sweet pickles.

From childhood on, bread and butter pickles — the sweeter the better — have been a life-long secret favorite food. Another secret?  Apparently, I have a mega sweet tooth, no doubt inherited from a long line of sweet teeth: my mother, who insists every dinner have a matching dessert, even though none of us still work on a dairy farm; and my father, whose real-life heaven consists of peanut butter-mallow sundaes. In our house, nothing couldn’t be fixed or mended with a little sweet somethin’ somethin.’

My mother kept pickles in the house at all times. Sweet baby gherkins, bread and butter, and, of course, the pedestrian dills.  Jars were pulled out during holidays, arranged in the segmented crystal serving platter reserved only for pickles and olives and only for holidays.

After leaving home, I often found myself hoarding jars in my own fridge.  Some gals hit the pints of ice cream. Others … jars of bread and butter pickles. Guilty!

One of the more memorable jars in memory was a gift from the kitchen of my mother’s ex-boyfriend’s mother. Confusing? Maybe. Delicious? Oh, hell yes. They were sweet. Transcendently, other-worldly sweet. The little cukes, thinly sliced and mixed with a healthy dose of pickled onions, were practically candy.

So, when my heart told me, ‘Pickles, your “sweet” burger must have sweet pickles,’ I decided to try my hand at a version of those memorable little guys. The sweet sassy little cukes would be the star; my grilled burger simply a handsome supporting actor.

So I hit the web, and found a crazy simple adapted recipe at Smitten Kitchen.

It was incredibly easy. I rolled out of bed on a sunny Saturday morning, prepped my little cukes and got to pickling. After two hours, sitting under ice at room temperature (while I got myself a manicure), they were ready to be mixed with a sweet, spicy, vinegar concoction. And into the fridge they went. That. Stupid. Easy.

Within hours, they were chilled and pickle-y, all ready to put on a burger (or eaten at 2 a.m., straight out of the jar).

As for my handsome supporting actor … er, burger … I turned to an expert: my own handsome supporting man. After a hot summer day filled with softball and cold afternoon beers, we got to burger creation. He fired up the coals while I prepped the meat.

Nothing special — the pickles are the star here. To my grass-fed, 85-15 ground beef, I added a little of the same spices from the pickles, thinking that might bring out more pickle flavor. A bit of Worcester sauce to keep it moist and a dash of salt and pepper, and onto the grill it went.

According to the expert, the burgers would start to bleed from the top, signaling the prime time to flip for a good medium doneness. Well … they never did, and the flame from the grill acted out of turn, a little too aggressive on the meat.  They ended up overdone but still moist, with a delectable flame-charred outer crust (this may have been due to my patty-shaping skills — think little and fat).

We added a mild white cheddar cheese at the very end, something to complement but not overpower the pickles.

How did it all work out, you ask?  Well, this might not be a shocker, given my infamous sweet tooth, but the pickles were NOT SWEET ENOUGH!

I had envisioned a pickled candy… crisp and coy. Instead, they retained way too much pickling saltiness. I could have prevented that, had I heeded Smitten Kitchen’s salt advice. With a quick read, I would have known to cut back the salt amount, as I used David’s Kosher Salt and not the Diamond that Deb recommended.

I was also a tad too heavy-handed with the coriander, one of the pickle seasonings I added to the meat. Next time, I’ll either stick to simple salt and pepper or stir in a little of the pickle juice.

While neither the burger nor the bread and butter pickles were exactly what I had imagined, the end result spoke of a promising future. One in which this sweet, sassy leading lady might send her own jars of pickled candy home with you. If you’re lucky.

Burgers

1 pound ground beef (I used 85-15, grass-fed beef)
2 dashes Worcester sauce
Fresh ground salt and pepper
Seasonings from pickle recipe (I used ground turmeric and ground coriander)

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl.  Form into small/medium sized patties.  Prepare grill.  We used a charcoal grill, prepared with cooking spray to prevent too much sticking.  Watch the flame, move patties around as needed to avoid too much flame.  Cook one side of patty until bleeding from the top.  Flip patty and cook till bottom gets charred.  Add cheese and let melt before removing patties.

Pickles (Adapted from Smitten Kitchen)

1 pound cucumbers, sliced 1/4-inch thick — smaller, “pickling” or kirby cucumbers work best here
1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup kosher salt
1/2 to 3/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds (if ground, use 1 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon celery seed

Combine the cucumbers, onion and salt in a medium bowl. Mix it up well, cover it all with ice and let it stand at room temperature for two hours. In the meantime, boil the sugar, vinegar and spices in a pot. Drain your now-room temp veggies and add them to the pot with the vinegar mixture.  Bring it all back to a boil and then remove it from the heat to cool.

You can keep those sweet babies in an airtight container for up to three weeks in the fridge. But you don’t have to wait that long … it only takes two hours before they start tasting like pickles.

Assemble the burgers using soft challah rolls, pickles (generous portion), and a couple slices of fresh sweet tomatoes. Enjoy.

 

Posted in Sweet
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!